Samantha Brenneman, Daughters of Ganesh
Why does so much of the bellydance world rock tribal gear even when it’s doing completely ‘other’ dances? Well, because it’s good to dance in, flattering to just about everyone, and really interesting to look at.
What are the qualities of ATS costume?
Richness. ATS costume is based on saturated colors plus black, often decorated with embroidery, mixed prints, mirror work, beading and shells. Indigenous textiles from the world over find their way into it. Pastels generally do not fit in; matchiness is discouraged. It feels ‘real’.
Complexity. This costume style is built in layers; pantaloons, skirt or skirts, hip wear... choli, coin bra... full headdress with non-hair elements such as flowers, jewelry or headpieces.
Modesty. Go ahead, laugh, but it’s true. ATS dancers do not wear just a bra or slit pantaloons, or show bare legs under a skirt. Yes, the midriff and much of the back are bare, but that’s all. And a choli with coin bra is both modest and completely supportive. Don’t take my word for it: go into the photo or video archives of FCBD. You’ll see dancers of all sizes and shapes wearing the open-backed choli and coin bra combination and looking wonderful.
You might think your 24-yard skirt is so big it will preserve your modesty on its own. Sadly, no. When you spin, it will rise, and whatever you do or don’t have on under there will become part of the show. Pantaloons, the bigger the better, do a great job of getting around this problem while adding a beautiful underlayer. They can also function as a petticoat of sorts, making the entire frothy skirt just that much airier.
Integrated, fully-realized headdress. Not just hair, and not just hair with a flower in it... one of the most important elements of ATS style is full, elaborate makeup crowned with a good display of turban or embellished updo.
Can I wear pajama bottoms or Gothic pants?
As a soloist, or for practice, sure, but beware: drawstring pants are not particularly flattering, and Gothic pants don’t do anything for spins; they are also prone to being shredded on rough surfaces since they trail around the feet. Shalwar and other ethnic trouser styles can work if chosen thoughtfully. It’s most effective if the group presents a unified silhouette that’s prearranged.
I feel like I need a bra under my choli. Can I wear one?
Best not to. It’s just too many layers and too many straps. A properly fitted choli is supportive, even more so when worn under a coin bra.
I never wear makeup. Why should I wear it to dance?
ATS is an art form, a theatrical presentation. You want your head-to-toe look to be just that, or it will look like you forgot to fully dress. Please look at images of indigenous dancers from Africa, India and southeast Asia to see this understanding in action. Be bold- no dainty lipgloss or little spidery lines.
Isn’t a turban hot and uncomfortable?
Actually, no. It absorbs your sweat, in fact. There’s a reason they are often worn in some very hot climates!
All that jewelry! Really?
Really. God is in the details.
Can I wear my skirt up higher? I’m embarrassed to show my
belly.
Again check out the photo archives. Doing the old-man-pants bit with your skirt doesn’t actually hide anything. Hitch it down, and relax.
A personal note: I think those shebeka tummy-cover things look weird with tribal costume, and they tend to draw attention to what they were meant to camouflage. Skip them. While you are at it, skip the push-up bras, too. We are about body acceptance!
What is up with the face markings?
This is tribal harquus. You are not dressing for an ordinary street look; this is a whole system of costume. Don’t just make stuff up, though- it’s good to be respectful of the original meaning of the marks. Do some research before you start drawing on yourself. These markings are derived from North African and Indian facial tattoos and painted marks, meant as clan signifiers or to give protection to the wearer’s body.
So, no cleavage, no lipgloss, no hiding my belly? Don’t I
get to be a sexy bellydancer?
Sure you do, but it comes from the inside out! ATS is more folkloric and less glamour/Hollywood... leave that kind of fun for other bellydance styles. Be beautiful and earthy, powerful and dignified. Now that’s sexy!